
Our days in Patzcuaro were nothing short of blissful. We spent one day exploring, and ended up by fresh berries in the market (which was quite extensive). One thing led to another, and soon we were buying ingredients for a picnic lunch! We took our things back to the hotel and then continued scouting the town, stopping in to observe about 5 churches. Both Omar and I were impressed at how polite and friendly people were in Michoacan. Cuernavaca is more pushy, cars won’t stop to let you cross the street, and few people say hello. In contrast, Patzcuaro’s people were engaging and more positive. I suppose in a word, it was charming. We also stopped in to an old Jesuit College (now used as a church/community center) and an old convent which now houses an artisan market. Then we went back to enjoy our delicious feast. I loved that the hotel had a full-size kitchen for us to use. My how I am starting to miss cooking for myself in my own kitchen! We ate, relaxed, and went out to buy a bottle of wine to enjoy by the fireside later that night. This is the life!
The next day we headed for the island of Janitzio. It was really fun to be on the water for the first time in months. Even though it was obviously polluted water (from overuse, misuse, and run-off from nearby farms), still, it was fun to have the wind blow through my hair and to see the islands growing closer. We reached the dock and were helped off the boat by some little boys who make quite a business of loading and unloading the boats all day long. As soon as we hit the shore, the small street packed with vendors and some good-looking lunch spots start calling for us to stop and find all that we need. It is quite an interesting experience, and can sometimes be overwhelming or just plain annoying. So, we hiked up this huge hill to the statue (which was kind of painful because my cough had developed overnight and I had trouble breathing). We tried these little fried fish at the of the island, and though the flavor was good, I told Omar I just didn’t like having eyes looking back at me from my food! Then we started up the inside of the statue, reading the history of Morelos as it was muraled around the body of the statue. We stood in line, probably for an hour, and finally made it to the outside to stand on a little ledge and stick our head out over the edge to catch a glimpse of Lake Patzcuaro, the other islands, and the fisherman at work with their butterfly nets below. It was pretty spectacular. We climbed down, I bought earrings outside, we took some photos, and then we continued on to find lunch down by the dock. We stuffed our self with fish and gorditas of wonderfully flavorful masa. I watched a Purepachan abuela work up tortillas, her daughters sitting nearby helping with the restaurant, and later her granddaughter jumping up in front of her to take over. She couldn’t have been more than 3 years old. It was just beautiful. I told Omar, these are the memories I will keep with me forever: good food with my good friend, sitting at a family restaurant overlooking the water and listening to those little boys advertise their service to incoming/outgoing tourists. *sigh* We headed back to Patzcuaro, fat and happy. We rested awhile, then made our Michoacan hot chocolate and ate strawberries...by the fireside. All in all, a beautiful day.
Good Friday arrived and after breakfast, we went back to Tzintzuntzan for the Viacrusis. The puebla was packed with people: artisans, vendors, and the courtyard of the church with people ready for the pilgrimage. We stood crammed in the crowd, trying to avoid the hot sun, watching the play of Judas. It was really incredible to watch these men, and he who play Jesus especially, sacrifice their body in representation of Christ's Passion. It made me cringe, and cry. Penitents, believing in the guilt, walked through the crowd with a white cloth over their head, barefoot, and chains on their hands and ankles. And the crowd was all ages too: babies, kids, adults, older people. To them, it seemed like just another Good Friday, but I was hit pretty hard in the heart. Later, we made a path around the courtyard carrying the heavy Jesus statues and praying the stations of the cross over a loud speaker. I walked next to a horse as well. Omar was offered to help carry Jesus on the cross into the church and accepted. I feel that in Mexico, Easter is much more about the death of Jesus then the resurrection, which is a great contrast to the American celebration. I think there may be many explanations as to why, most for cultural historic reasons, and empathy for the Passion of Christ. I missed the joy of our celebrations back home. Jesus did rise from the dead, and he will come again, but that was hardly even mentioned on Easter Sunday.
Anyway, I think we pretty much peaced-out for the rest of the day because we were in Tzintzuntzan most of the afternoon. We went for dinner and packed a bit...and had another fire after some star-gazing. Saturday we packed up early, had a really great breakfast at a Cafe de los Angeles in Patzcuaro and started out for Taxco: our spur of the moment idea! Unfortunately, our road trip home was full of traffic and we were hungry and exhausted (and I was becoming more sick and cranky) by 6pm when we finally reached Cuernavaca. Neither Omar nor I wanted me to stay in our school-house alone in my state so as I withered in a fever, Omar came in to check on me every few hours through the night, bring me water, and offer to do anything and everything he possible could so that I could be well. At 5 in the morning on Easter Sunday, I woke up from the cold and gazed out the window. I realized how incredibly lucky I was to have met Omar, to have this new friend and companion who not only can I enjoy fun activities and adventures with, but who feels grateful to care for me like this. I can't imagine how different my experience of Mexico would have been if I hadn't met Omar and finally decided to give him a chance. I would have missed so many fabulous cultural experiences and exchanges here. We realize our great fortune in meeting one another. And we realize our great challenge that we face in our future. But nothing is impossible before God.
On Easter Sunday, we decided it was best that we stay in Cuernavaca and rest. We woke, I met his mom briefly because she was heading to Il Centro to work, and then Omar and I went to the Church for the mass. Since we were early, we walked to the grocery store for a jump rope to take to DF so I could do some form of cardio activity at our seminary where we would stay for a week. I hate being cooped up without exercise. Then we went to mass, which was really crowded, hot, and the speakers weren't very good so I really couldn't understand a lot from our spot in the very back. It was a bit of a disappointment because I am used to great celebrations in Seattle now with lively music and big smiles etc. And here, it seemed kind of mundane.
So, that's pretty much a summary of my Semana Santa. Sorry it took two weeks to recollect for you all. Enjoy the pictures...I have more to show you. Soon I'll try write about the stay in UNAM, but right now I'm pinned down with a weighty amount of homework. I guess our teachers decided to save it all for the end. greeeeat.
Love,
aly